Essential | A.Posse Sneakers

So its been some time since I last posted, but I am finally back and just in time for the holidays.  During my hiatus, I received a number of questions about gift ideas for a man who has everything.  So I thought I would answer this questions in multiple parts so I can feature one essential piece a day until Christmas Eve.

Just to catch you all up, during my time away, I developed a new found appreciation for unique sneakers.  If you know where I'm heading with this, your absolutely wrong.  Brands like Common Projects, Lanvin, or Raf Simons has nothing on A.Posse, a New York based sneaker company.  

Founded by Stephen Sung, this limited production sneaker company takes cues from classic sneakers of our time and fuses them with modern day ingenuity.  The result is a minimalist look that is neither fancy or opulent, but simple, stylish, wearable, and amazingly comfortable.

Each sneaker is made of full grain cow leather with Napa finishing and the interior is made of high quality pig leather.  This mix creates a super supple feel and a sneaker that ages gracefully.

For those who have everything, I would take a stroll over to A.Posse to pick up a pair of these limited run sneakers.  I can guarantee that "someone" does not have a pair of these.  I suggest pre-ordering a pair as there is a fairly extensive wait list.  

My personal favorite is the Fulton.

Essential Facts | Mens Shoes

This is a great guide for those of you that are looking to purchase quality shoes.


The Ready to Wear (RTW) Shoe Pyramid

You really have to separate the bespoke makers out from the RTW makers. The process and the product are entirely different.  I'm not fond of ranking shoe makers because there are just too many variables and personal preference plays too much of a role. However, here are some general comments about some ready to wear brands.

England

• John Lobb Paris -- Just about the most sublime RTW shoe available (Jermyn II) is made by John Lobb Paris. The shoes with the "bevelled bootmaker" soles (Lobb calls them the "Prestige" line) are usually superlative. They're made from skins that are frequently close to bespoke in quality, the lasts typically used (7000 and 8000) are elegant, and the construction is every bit as good as the best machine-made shoes in the world. The regular line isn't as good -- no bevelled waists, some lasts used are less elegant (8695, 9795), etc. -- but they're still excellent shoes. The prices have gotten completely out of control -- nearly $900 for a regular-line cap-toe bal is outrageous, in my humble opinion. The original John Lobb in London started its Paris outpost in 1901. In 1976, the Paris shop was sold to Hermes, along with the exclusive right to market RTW shoes bearing the Lobb name (except in Japan, where there exists a substandard line of shoes called Lobb's that is completely unaffiliated with either JL St. James or JL Paris). JL Paris shoes are made in the former Edward Green factory in Northampton, England, which is why it appears in this section rather than in the French section.
  
• Edward Green -- Maker of the second most sublime RTW shoe available (Dover) and user of some wonderfully elegant lasts (82, 808, 888, etc.). EG doesn't make an equivalent to JL Paris's bevelled bootmaker shoes, but their shoes are made to standards equal to or better than JL's regular line shoes. EG is known for the antiquing that they apply to their shoes; they get their skins in a "crust" state, without much if any pigment applied. That allows them to apply a wonderful variegated finish to all of their non-black shoes. I think it's beautiful, but others aren't so enthusiastic.
  
• Church's -- They use a lot of corrected-grain leather, they half-line a lot of their non-summer shoes in linen, and a lot of their shoes have rubber top-lifts. Not very nice, if you ask me, especially at the prices that Church's tries to charge. Church's built the first Northampton shoe factory in the second half of the 19th century.
  
• Crockett & Jones -- Crockett & Jones produces two separate lines of shoes. The regular line are solid and well-made are are a good value for the money. The Handgrade shoes are freqently beautiful, particularly if made on the Dimitri Gomez-designed 337 last. The Handgrade shoes retail for perhaps $200 less than Edward Green and appear to be designed to compete with EG. They're good shoes, but I don't think that they're quite there -- the antiquing isn't as good, the last shapes aren't as refined, the standards of construction are just a little bit lower -- but whether you think that they're close enough to make the $200 difference a bargain is an individual decision. In any event, C&J does a tremendous amount of private-label shoe manufacturing at various different quality levels for various different retailers.
  
• Grenson -- This firm's name is a contraction of "William Green and Son," which suggests that once upon a time there might have been some relationship with Edward Green. I'm not certain. This firm is capable of making very high-quality shoes comparable to C&J Handgrade. Grenson used to sell these "Masterpieces" shoes under their own label. Recently, however, Grenson appears to have fallen on hard times and has ceased selling these shoes except as private-label offerings. It's a pity. They were wonderful shoes. The good news is that Stuart's Choice shoes from Paul Stuart are made to the old Masterpieces standards by Grenson. I have never seen any Grenson shoes from the lower lines (Feathermasters and what not), so I can't comment about the level of quality.
  
• Tricker's -- Well-made shoes. Some of them are unexciting or made on inelegant lasts, but the quality of construction is very good and the prices are very reasonable.
• Barker -- I have never seen these shoes in the flesh. From their website, it looks like they specialize in low-priced shoes with a high proportion being made from corrected-grain leather. Barker Black is Barker's attempt to go upmarket. They're certainly distinctive (skull and crossbones medallions and whatnot), but I don't know if they're entirely successful aesthetically.
• Cheaney -- Cheaney is owned by Church's (at least they were the last time I checked), although I don't think that Cheaney and Church's have cross-pollinated much. The Cheaney shoes that I have seen have been solid, if unexciting.

• Loake -- Another English maker that I know little about except what I have seen online, and what I have seen online leads me to believe that Loake produces a profusion of cheap, corrected-grain shoes.
  
• Alfred Sargent -- Alfred Sargent is another maker that produces private-label merchandise for everybody and another maker with a profusion of different lines of varying quality. The Premier and Premier Exclusive lines appear to be very good and very fairly priced.
  
• Schnieder Boots -- I know nothing whatever about Schnieder except that they hold a royal warrant and that most of the footwear they sell is equestrian.
  
• New & Lingwood -- George Cleverley himself used to work in N&L's bespoke operation, as did George Glasgow and John Carnera, the men who inherited Cleverley's name and set up the GJ Cleverley bespoke firm in the early 1990s. Sadly, N&L's bespoke operation is a thing of the past, and most of their shoe offerings appear to be rebadged Grenson and Alfred Sargent shoes. They do have some RTW shoes made from the famous Catherina von Flensburg Russian reindeer hide, and I believe, although I am not certain, that those shoes were made by Crockett & Jones.
  
• Wildsmith -- Another former bespoke maker with a wonderful past and a somewhat less glorious present. My understanding, although I have never seen the shoes, is that Mr. Wildsmith sells rebadged Edward Green and Crockett & Jones shoes at steep markups.
  
• GJ Cleverley -- The sample Cleverley RTW shoes that I have seen are almost certainly made by Crockett & Jones. In fact, a pair of Cleverley bespoke shoes came to me in a RTW box very similar to the light blue box that C&J uses, complete with the last number 337 emblazoned on the side. It is possible that Cleverley uses other makers for some of their models, however.
  
• Peal -- Yet another now-defunct but legendary name in bespoke shoemaking. Brooks Brothers acquired the right to market RTW shoes bearing the Peal name from the Peal bespoke company in the early 1950s (JLibourel below places the date in 1953, and I have no reason to doubt him). The Peal bespoke firm later ceased operations in the 1960s, leaving Brooks Brothers with the only Peal-labeled shoes left. The original BB Peal shoes were made by Edward Green, and, if pictures are any guide, were things of beauty, both in quality of construction (is anything from Edward Green anything else) and in last shape, which was a distinctive high-walled banana sort of thing.  A few years ago, BB revived the line, this time with shoes made by Crockett & Jones. More recently, other Peal shoes, probably made by Alfred Sargent, have come to dominate BB's Peal offerings. It's worthwhile to note that just because a particular pair of Peal shoes is made by Crockett & Jones, it doesn't mean that those shoes are made to the standards of any particular C&J-labelled shoes. Retailers will specify the quality level of the upper leather, sole leather, and so on in order to bring the shoes in at a particular price; and shoe factories are happy to accommodate them.
• Ralph Lauren -- As everybody knows, Ralph Lauren does not actually make any shoes. He buys shoes. A lot of them. From a lot of different manufacturers in a lot of different countries. So why am I putting him in the England category? Because the most noteworthy shoes bearing his name are made in England. First are the Polo-labeled English-made shoes. These used to be made by Crockett & Jones, and the models sold were identical to models that appeared in the C&J catalogue. In late 2004 or early 2005, this changed. The models were different. The interior markings were different and were unlike anything I had ever seen from C&J. The soles were channeled instead of stitched aloft as they had been previously. My overall impression was that the quality level of the shoes increased. The price certainly did. In any event, I suspect that these shoes are no longer made by Crockett & Jones. I could certainly be wrong, but the interior markings make me suspicious. Second are what used to be called the Purple Label shoes and what are now labeled Ralph Lauren Made In England. These shoes are made by Edward Green and appear to be of the same quality in every respect to EG-labeled shoes. They do come with laquered, lasted trees, unlike regular EG shoes; and many of them are made on 89 last, which is generally only used for RL shoes. They are often available at considerable discount during RL sales.

Essentials | Worn Today

Hamilton | Blue Oxford
Poupette | Box Chain Bracelet
Lee Jeans | Rigid Dark Blue Denim
Alden | Black Tassel Loafers

Music | Mighty Oaks

Rainier by mightyoaksmusic

Like An Eagle by mightyoaksmusic

Driftwood Seat by mightyoaksmusic

Made to Measure | Louis Purple NYC

After many years of buying my suits off the rack and even having them tailored, I was fed up with the idea of suits never fitting properly and overpaying for the tailoring process.  While most have other issues with their suiting, I have issues all around in the suiting department; this also applies to shirting as well.  I guess these are the difficulties of being a certain height and build.  

This prompted me to head on over to Louis Purple (L.P), a shop run by one Charles Brunold.  Louis Purple is a made to measure stockist carrying an array of made to measure suit, shirts, shoes, and casual pants using some of the best Italian and English fabrics to choose from.  While it was my first time having a suit made, Charles put my mind at ease as he walked me through the whole process of choosing everything from the type of fabrics to each and every detail.  It also gave me a chance to really discuss with the affable Charles about how the store was conceived and his vision.

Apparently, frustrated with the price point and fit of off the rack suits, Charles wanted to create made to measure suits that is not only affordable but uncompromising in quality.  As for how he is able to create suits using such high end fabrics at such a low price point, suits and shirts are all made in Eastern Europe.  

While I had my reservations about the made to measure suiting process, I was pleasantly surprised at how amazing the suit and shirt came out.  Using a light super 120's Vitale Barberis Canonico fabric that can be worn during the summer, I choose an Italian shoulder and for a slimmer cut.  Though choosing the fabric and picturing myself in a customized suit did enthrall me, what is possibly the best thing about this whole process is the ability 

to have every aspect of the suit customized to my very specifications.  And as you can see, it came out perfectly. So if you happen to be in the NOHO area, drop in and let them know that I sent you.

Made to Measure Suit/Shirt | Louis Purple

323 Lafayette
New York, NY
10012
(212) 219-8559

Material Interest | 1970's Rolex Red Submariner

A Continuation from the last | How it looks put together

(ethandesu)

I'm such a huge fan of accessories for men.  If often crosses the gender lines, however you have to feel comfortable with wearing what some may construe as feminine.  I happen to think it adds a nice unique flare that separates you from every other guy out there.  The clothes, shoes, and even bag just is not enough to really distinguish your personal style from what you saw in the window of a store.  My only piece of advise is be bold and daring with your personal style, even if its a bit of flare on your wrist.

Accessories | Lapel Flower

Adorn your lapel with a little bit of color, and watch as the compliments roll in.  Its a bit of unexpected color, but when people look closer and realize that you've put some thought into how you've accessorized, people will notice.  Its a good thing.  It separates you from the other suits in the world.

Essential Scent | Dr Harris Marlborough

Dr Harris | Marlborough Cologne
Marlborough is a subtle blend of woods including cedar and sandalwood

Essential Pieces | Todays Look

Filson Mackinaw
Deluxe x Hanes
Epaulet Navy Chino
Alden Chukka Boot

Essential | Spring Look

Courtesy of Tommy Ton (GQ)

There's just something great about the spring that I love.  Not is it only that carefree, nonchalant style, but the easy efforts of putting together things you wouldn't think to put together.  People become more daring to put together colors and this shows very effortlessly in this picture above.  Its a beautiful thing and I love this feeling it evokes.  Look at the rich chocolaty brown blazer and the green slacks.  What you would find to be rather appalling, matches so well.  When spring does finally arrive here in NY, I will be flossing my interpretation of this.  Watch out Pitt Uomo! 

Found | A College Album or Rah, Rah, Yesterday

Want | Cafe Racer

During my trip to Hong Kong I stumbled upon a bike that caught my eye. It was a modified Cafe Racer that looked like a complete Norton Manx, however closer look revealed that it was in fact a pieced together bike containing parts from a number of different bikes; frame looked closer to an older Yamaha, and the engine was definitely from an older CB750. All in all, this bike was done up perfectly.

If your wondering what at Cafe Racer is: A café racer, originally pronounced "caff" (as in Kaff) racer, is a type of motorcycle as well as a type of motorcyclist. Both meanings have their roots in the 1960s British counterculture group the Rockers, or the Ton-up boys, although they were also common in Italy, Germany, and other European countries. In Italy, the term refers to the specific motorcycles that were and are used for short, sharp speed trips from one coffee bar to another.

Rockers were a young and rebellious Rock and Roll counterculture that wanted a fast, personalized and distinctive bike to travel between transport cafés along the newly built arterial motorways in and around British towns and cities. The goal of many was to be able to reach 100 miles per hour (called simply "the ton") along such a route where the rider would leave from a cafe, race to a predetermined point and back to the cafe before a single song could play on the jukebox, called record-racing. They are remembered as being especially fond of Rockabilly music and their image is now embedded in today's rockabilly culture.

-wiki

Want | MKII x Omega Seamaster 300 Limited Edition

Omega Seamaster 300 x MKII

If your not familiar with the MKII custom watch company, I am about to drop some knowledge on you.  The MKII company is the first of it's kind, customizing and hacking watches of all brands.  In particular, what perhaps put MKII on the map was the Seiko Diver x MKII collaboration in which they had used a Type II dial, sword hands, black day/date and the hardened and engraved bezel.  This gave the watch a real utilitarian look that stood out from an ordinary diving watch.  Though, the Seiko watches are somewhat of the past, MKII has recently released a limited edition 300 piece run that celebrates the "Omega Seamaster 300."   A truly stunning piece I can't wait to get my hands on.

Essential | Winter Look

Coat | Canada Goose Ontario Parka
Scarf | Howlin by Morrison Olso Scarf
Pants | Steven Alan for Dockers Officer Khaki
Boots | Aigle Jodhpur Boots

Capsule NYC | AW 2011 | Eastland Made in Maine USA Collection

To mark their 55th anniversary, Eastland's much anticipated Made in Maine USA Collection of men's limited edition footwear will launch this fall with a number of additional styles and color variations that are sure to be a hit.  Each signature style is hand-sewn and made from the finest American made leather (Horween) and components available. The collection reflects Eastland's 55 year heritage as a genuine Maine shoe brand and upholds the time honored tradition of American made footwear.  While Eastland marks their 55th anniversary, it also marks a momentous occasion of my own.  I have been wearing Eastland's Falmouth mocs for almost two decades and I am truly excited about the new collection.  

More pics after the jump.

Winter Look | Some Essentials

1. Outdoor Products Messenger Bag

2. The Real McCoy's USN Watch Cap

3. Mt. Rainier Design Down Vest

4. The Real McCoy's 12 oz Grey Sweatshirt

5. Ciaopanic Military Issue Pant

6. LL Bean Crepe Sole Moccasin Boot

Want | Rimowa Classic Flight

Rimowa | Classic Flight

Now I do not travel a lot, however when I do, I'm reminded how inferior my luggage is by awkward looks and wondering eyes at the airport, especially when I travel international.  I mean I understand, my traveling luggage dates back to my teen years when just a suitcase to stick my stuff in would suffice.  Though, over the years, the pieces of luggage have began to show age and wear and its time for me trade up, and I think I've found what I was looking for all along.  The Rimowa Classic Flight edition is truly beautiful looking and just as functional as it is good looking.  Made of a lightweight aircraft aluminum in Germany and adorned with rich leather handles, the Rimowa Classic Flight Edition can withstand extreme weather conditions without damage. The Rimowa Classic Flight suitcases are awesome and I really want one. 

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Winter Essential | D.S. Dundee

The Ultimate D.S. Dundee Collection:
Munro Corduroy Trousers - beautifully tapered and detailed rich corduroy trousers with side buckle adjusters and coin pocket detail. Hemmed to your measurements.
Stonybrook Fairisle Vest - Crafted on the Shetland Islands from pure traditional lambswool.
Rafford Silk Tie - Made in the UK 100% Silk Tie with gun dog design.
Corbett Derby Contrast Leather Boot - To see you through the frostier months.
Fair Isle Socks - To keep you toes nice and warm
Clan Tartan Scarf - the perfect accent. 6 Clans to choose from.
Country Grain Weekend Bag -  Developed with D.S. Dundee's new luggage & leather expert Ayo Blake, this extraordinary piece highlights his true craftsmanship alongside some of the finest grain leather available. 

Winter Essential | Tie and Scarf Co. Manchester Scarves

Now that winter is finally here and bundling is the only way to dress, its time to discuss the essentials of winter.  The Tie and Scarf Co. Manchester produces quality scarves and ties, though we're really focusing on their scarves today.  All scarves are made in England of pure new wool, heavy enough to withstand some of the harsh winds we have here in New York.  As for color variations, my personal favorites are the Ivy League University scarves.

As for the company, The Tie and Scarf Co. Manchester, is a family owned business,which has been involved in the manufacturing of accessories for over 150 years. During that time, the company has enjoyed an impressive international reputation for the manufacture of English Tradition high quality speciality textiles, which can only be seen at the finest stores in over 30 countries.